How to Build a Wooden Dog House

Free Woodworking Plans from Lee's Wood Projects

Posted by

Give your pet the needed protection from the wind, rain, and snow. This medium sized wood dog house is functional as well as stylish. It is primarily constructed of cedar wood to help withstand insects and decay. Your pet will undoubtedly appreciate the raised floor, which will keep him off the cold and wet ground during the winter months. You might consider painting the dog house and trim the same color as your house for aesthetic purposes.

Click On Image to See Larger Scalable Drawing

Technical Information for Building a Wooden Dog House

A. Materials List:

2 A Front/Rear Bases 2" x 4" x 30" Treated Cedar
2 B Side Bases 2" x 4" x 26 1/2"  Treated Ceder
1 C Center Base  2".x 4"x  26 1/2" Treated Cedar
1 D Floor Board 1/2" x 30" x 30" Exterior Fir Ply.
7 E Wall Studs 2" x 2" x 19 1/2" Cedar
2 F Entry Studs 2" x 2" x 16" Cedar
4 G Sill Plates 2" x 2" x 30" Cedar
1 H Entry Header 2" x 2" x 26" Cedar
3 I Rafters 2" x 2" x 24 9/16" Cedar
2 J Ridge Boards 2" x 2 9/16" x 12" Cedar
2 K Front/Rear Siding 1/2" x 31" x 34 3/16"  Exterior Fir Ply.
2 L Side Siding 1/2" x 30" x 22 13/16" Exterior Fir Ply.
2 M Roof Sheathing 1/2" x 24 516" x 36"` Exterior Fir Ply.
4 N Front/Rear Verticall Moldings 1/2' x 1 1/2" x 23 3/16" Cedar
4 O Side Verticall Moldings 1/2" x 1" x 22 3/8" Cedar
2 P Side Horizontall  Moldings 1/2" x 1" x 32" Cedar
2 Q Vertical Opening Moldings 1/2" x 1" x 17 1/2" Cedar
1 R Horizontal Opening Moldings 1/2" x 1" x 14" Cedar
2 S Fascia Boards 1/2" x 2 1/2" x 36" Cedar
1 T Roofing Felt 36" x 51"   (15#) Tar Paper
1 U Shingles 14 Sq. Ft. Cedar
  V Misc. Nails & Wood Screws    
1 W Latex Primer 1 Gallon Primer
1 X Exterior Latex Paint 1 Gallon Paint


Red Cedar


Douglas Fir

B. Wooden Dog House Cutting Procedures:

  1. From 2" x 4" lumber use a power miter saw cut the front and rear bases (A) 30" long, and the side bases (B) 26 1/2" long. Also, cut the center base (C) 26 1/2" long.
  2. From 2" x 2" lumber cut seven wall studs (E) 20" long and the two entry studs (F) 16 1/2" long. Also cut the entry header (H) 26" long.
  3. From 2" x 2" lumber cut the six rafters (I) 24 9/16" long. Also use the power miter saw to cut a 51 degree angle on one end of each rafter. Use a band saw to cut a 90 degree notch 3 3/4" from the end of each rafter.
  4. From 2" x 2" lumber cut four sill plates (G) 30" long. Install dado blades on the radial arm saw and cut a 2" x 2" x 1" lap joint on both ends of each sill plate.
  5. Using a table saw rip a 2" x 4" board to a width of 2 9/16". Tilt the table saw blade to 51 degrees and bevel one half the thickness of the board. Turn the board end for end and rip another 51 degree bevel. Use the power miter saw to cut the board into two 12" long ridge boards (J). (See Ridge Board Detail Drawing)
  6. From a 1/2" thick exterior plywood board use a panel saw to cut the floor board (D) 30" square. Also, cut the front & rear siding (K) 31" wide x 34 3/16" high. At the top of each siding piece mark the center. Measure 22 7/16" up from the bottom of each side and draw lines to the center mark. On the front siding (K) draw the entry shape 12" x 16 1/2". Use a band saw to cut the roof angles for the front and rear siding. Also use a band saw to cut the entry opening.
  7. Cut the side siding (L) 30" wide x 22 13/16" high. Tilt the table saw blade to 51 degrees and bevel the top of each side siding to conform to the roof slope.
  8. Use a panel saw to cut two roof sheathing (M) 24 15/16" x 36". Use a table saw to bevel the top edges, of each sheathing, to 51 degrees.
  9. Plane a 3/4" x 12" x 72" board 1/2" thick. From this board cut all the molding and fascia pieces.
  10. Use a power miter saw to cut two fascia boards (S) 36" long
  11. Use a power miter saw to cut the top ends of the four front/rear vertical moldings (N) 51 degrees, and the bottom ends 45 degrees.
  12. Cut the top ends of the four side vertical moldings (O) 51 degrees to conform to the roof slope. Cut the ends of the two side horizontal moldings (P) to 34 degrees.
  13. Cut the ends of the three opening moldings (Q) and (R) 45 degrees.

C. Assembly Procedures:

  1. Use16d common nails to nail the front and rear bases (A) onto the side bases (B). Also nail the center base (C) between the centers of the side bases.
  2. Use 6d common nails to nail the floor board (D) onto the bases.
  3. Turn the assembly upside down and use a #12 counter sink to sink screw holes 2" deep into the bases (A), and (B), where the center of the wall and entry studs (E) and (F) will be positioned. Use a 1/8" drill bit to drill completely through the bases and the floor board.
  4. Mark the bottom-center of each wall stud and drill a 1/8" hole 1 1/2" deep.
  5. Anchor the bottom of each wall and entry stud onto the base-floor board assembly with #12 x 4" flathead screws.
  6. Turn the assembly right-side up and nail the two side sill plates (G) onto the top of the studs with 7d nails. Use 10d nails to nail the entry header (H) onto the top of the entry studs (F). Also nail the entry studs to the ends of the header. Use 10d nails to nail the front and rear sill plates (G) in place. Be sure to lap the joints at each corner stud.
  7. Attach the rafters (I) to the sill plates (G) with 1/2" x 2" metal plates and 1" flathead screws. Connect the rafter together at the roof peak with 1/2" x 2" angle plates and 1" screws.
  8. Use 12d nails to nail the rafters (I) to the ridge boards (J) at the roof peak. Pre-drill 1/8" holes prior to nailing.
  9. Use 1 1/2" drywall screws to attach the fascia boards (S) onto the ends of the rafters (I).
  10. Attach the side siding (L) to the wall studs (E) and the side bases (B) using 1 1/2" drywall screws. Next, Attach the front and rear siding (K) with drywall screws. The front and rear siding should over lap the side siding.
  11. Use 1 1/2" drywall screws to attach the roof sheathing (M) to the rafters.
  12. Use a staple gun to attach the roofing felt (T) to the roof sheathing.
  13. Use roofing nails to attach the cedar shingles (U) to the roof sheathing. Start nailing the shingles from the overhang of the roof. The shingles should over- hang the fascia boards and the outside edge of the roof sheathing approx- imately 1". Space the rows of shingles approximately 4 3/4" apart. Be sure to place nails approximately 6" from the base of each shingle so the next shingle row will cover the nails. Use a caulk gun to apply roofing tar on the shingles at the roof. peak. Rip shingles 2" wide to be used for the cap row at the roof peak. Start the cap row at each end of the peak and work towards the middle of the roof. Use a shingle to overlap the shingles meeting at the middle.
  14. Use a nail gun with 1 1/2" nails to attach the moldings (N), (O), (P), (Q), & (R).

D. Finish Procedures:

  1. Use wood dough to fill all the nail holes, and when dry, sand flush with the molding.
  2. Use a painter's acrylic latex caulk to caulk all cracks. Be sure to caulk the screw holes drilled in the bottom of the base; the bottom of the siding where it overlaps the base; and the siding where the roof overhangs on the front, rear and sides.
  3. Apply two coats of latex primer to the base, siding, moldings and the fascia boards.
  4. Apply two coats of exterior latex paint.

Congratulations, your wooden dog house is finished and ready to sleep in!

Related Projects:

  • How to Build a Time Out Bench
  • How to Build a Bird House